Jump to content

Welcome to GTINI

Welcome to GTINI, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of GTINI by signing in or creating an account.

  • Start new topics and reply to others
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
  • Get your own profile page and make new friends
  • Send personal messages to other members.

Sign in to follow this  
DaveWilko

How to - Front mount intercooler on a MkIV Golf 1.8T

Recommended Posts

I just fitted a FMIC to my Golf and it was a *&%# of a job! One of those ones that looks easy but ends up takin a whole day to do. Probably didn't help that I didn't buy a ready made kit but I really wanted a fmic and couldn't afford a kit so this is for all you penniless modders out there lol. I ordered the pipes from ebay, all stainless. Don't do as I did and make do with 80 degree bends and 57.5mm pipes (2.25"), make sure you get full 90 degree and 60mm (or 63.5mm which is 2.5") diameter. Trust me, you will be glad you did. I had to cut the pipe that goes vertical to the throttle body and reweld it to 90 degrees because space is very tight and wrap 5 layers of gaffer tape round the pipe ends because the silicone joiners were 60mm. I also got a 60mm dia, 45 degree silicone pipe which fits the throttle body but found that 90 deg would be better so I had to cut the old rubber pipe to reuse. I also got a 1 metre length of silicone pipe and cut it to make joiners. This pic shows the layout I used and all the pipes you need. DSCF0715.jpg My fmic is from the kit for a starlet turbo but it is hooooge! Was a struggle to get the bumper back on lm-ic-ep91.jpg Looks like this but the exit pipes point towards the ground at about a 30 degree angle blitz_intcool_M2.jpg If you are facing the car, the right pipe exits the intercooler and does a u-turn round the back of the radiator before turning 90 degrees and going vertically to the throttle body. You need to get a MAP sensor flange welded to this vertical pipe because your MAP sensor is screwed to the old intercooler. I got mine from www.autosystems.ie in Cork - they are the agents for 42 Draft Designs who make the flange. You can also get something similar from Forge but you need to phone them as it isn't listed on their website MAPsensorflange.jpg I used a Blitz LM intercooler from one of their kits that a mate had lying in his garage. Got it very cheap considering their kits are around £950 :wink: Karl used a Laguna diesel intercooler on his Ibiza and there are plenty of different intercoolers to choose from on ebay. Just make sure it has a pipe coming out each side pointing towards the kerbs and not towards the radiator cos that won't fit. DSCF0708.jpg When you get the pipes you WILL have a lot of cutting to do to adjust the lengths to fit. I used two 115mm angle grinder discs doing mine. I also welded two 40 degree pipes together just cos it cut down on silicone joiners and looked tidier. This pipe goes behind the radiator and it is necessary to clear pipes at that end. I had to modify the steel crash bar behing the bumper to make the fmic fit behind it. You will also need to cut the centre bracket for the crash bar, just under the upper captive nut that the crash bar bolts on to. The following pic shows the right hand pipe exiting the fmic and going through the side splash guard into the engine bay. I had to use a longer joiner than I would have liked because the pipe going through the panel is only 80 deg and i needed a bit more flexibility DSCF0713.jpg This one shows the pipe running vertically to the throttle body. The metal fitting welded to it is the nozzle for my methanol injection. The MAP flange is welded on the other side, near the bottom of the pipe because I wanted it well away from the meth spray. If you don't have meth injection I would weld the MAP flange where I have the meth nozzle because space is very tight on the other side. DSCF0711.jpg The left hand pipe is a doddle. You just remove the old intercooler and pancake pipe and replace these with your 90 degree and 40 degree pipes. It is easier if you remove the rubber pipe coming from the turbo, stretch it over the 40 degree pipe and refit it. I don't know what you need to trim off a standard bumper but I had to cut great chunks out of my R32 replica fibreglass bumper. The bottom of the central grille is about 1" further forward and I had to cut semicircles from the bottom return edge and grind away the underneath of the right side grille opening and still use 7mm thick washers behind the lower bumper mountings to make mine fit. This took a lot of time, cutting a bit off, checking the fit, cut again, check etc. It took a lot of blood, sweat and tears cos I haven't done this before but it was well worth it. After a caning, the metal pipe going into the fmic from the turbo is hot but the pipe coming out the other side is still stone cold. The turbo spools up quicker and my butt dyno says I have more power. I'll get round to doing a few logging runs and let you know if my butt is right or wrong :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah Dave the kits are much easier!!, but were is the fun!! lol! The Leon was a homemade kit but the next car is deffo going to be an off the shelf!!! :wink:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the kind replies. You hit the nail on the head when you said 'wheres the fun in that?' I got a lot of fun and satisfaction workin it all out for myself. Refitting the bumper had me throwing my rattly out of the pram tho :lol:

Fancy doing one on my TDI?? i really need it now with my plans...
Sure, no probs m8. You bring the bits and i'll do the cutting and welding. I could do one a lot quicker now that I know where the pipes go (assuming a Tdi has a simiar induction layout) :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just did a few data logging runs with VAG-COM. With the original standard intercooler the intake temperatures were 23 degrees at 2300 rpm rising to 33 at 7200 rpm. After fitting the FMIC the temps have dropped to 15 at 2300 and 17 degrees at 7200 rpm :D peak performance figures haven't changed much - 260 lb/ft and 220bhp. I think either the mapping needs looked at or the rubber air intake pipe and the metal intake pipe on the turbo itself need upgraded. Would the N75 valve be holding it back? Anyone got any advice? :? (edit) By the way, even though the peak figures haven't increased, the power arrives much sooner. At 1840 rpm I am getting an extra 30 lb/ft of torque and it holds the torque peak for an extra 2000 rpm so I guess that is why it feels quicker :roll:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got the silicone pipes from http://stores.ebay.co.uk/ZENARacing_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm stainless pipes from http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Pipe-Werx-Performance-Exhausts I bought 2.25" pipes but I'm pretty sure 60mm couplings would stretch over the 2.5" pipes (63.5mm). If you have nothing that needs welded to a pipe you could buy alloy ones (I can only weld steel) If you just do a search for intercooler in car and parts on ebay it should bring up loads to look at. What are the big plans you mentioned?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the sound of that :twisted: Keep checking ebay if you don't see a suitable intercooler cos they are always appearing. Meantime check if the route my pipes take are the same as yours. I kept the steel pipe that exits the turbo cos it has other pipes plumbed into it and it is a good size anyway but the deisel is a totally different engine I think.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as i aware all turbo MKIV engines share the same SMIC apart from the 150pd, so in theory the route for a FMIC should be nearly the same but i may be wrong.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave did you cut your bumper (underside bit)? Ive got the forge fmic and the temps you mention are similar, bhp didnt change much for mine either so wouldnt worry about it, stage2 still rocks tho!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dave did you cut your bumper (underside bit)?
Hi Brendy. Yeah I had to cut semicircles out of the underside and grind the lower corner of the right grille opening very thin. Even then had to use 5mm spacer on the lower left bumper mount and 7mm on right one. I'm a bit relieved that you didn't notice much increase in power too lol. Thought I'd done something or was leaking boost. It was worth it for the much quicker spool up and even though the peak power is the same, it covers a lot more rpm. Yeah I'm lovin stage 2 lol. Want more power tho! Now where is that caymen s? Want another crack at ruining his day. I was only able to keep up with him before :twisted:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was chattin to Karl and he spotted the deliberate mistake lol. I didn't reset the ecu after I installed the fmic! Ok so I did that yesterday morning, reset the throttle body and put about 60 miles up yesterday so the ecu learned from the sensor readings. Today at 1.30pm I went out and did a few logs. Not an ideal time cos it was 20degrees outside but I couldn't wait. Peak power is now 274lb/ft and 224 bhp :D Also the graph curves are a lot smoother with less lumps and bumps. This is the result I wanted! :PLog180707_1.30pm20deg.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×