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DaveWilko

Methanol/water injection

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I don't know if this will be useful to anyone but Karl enlightened me to the benefits of meth/water injection and his R/R figures speak for themselves so I ordered a Coolingmist system from the states. I then looked for guides and tips on installing the thing and found next to nothing about it. I have since installed mine and thought a few pics and instructions/tips might be useful to the next poor sod trying it. I'm by no means an expert but i learned some useful stuff along the way. This relates to the kit with the vario-controller. What say u guys? Anyone interested?

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Ok first of all, enquire if Coolingmist will put all documentation inside the box and stick a handwritten label on it as this gives a better chance of avoiding the dreaded import duty, VAT and Parcelforce charges (£70 in my case!) They could declare the package as a gift which is what the seller did when I bought an ipod online. I installed the water tank and pump in the boot as I thought it would be cooler and easier on the pump there (cooler as in colder u gimp! :P ) Don't take the kit as being all you need. Extras I had to buy were: 1) 1/8" NPT tap (buy 2 in case 1 breaks) 2) 11/32" Drill bits (at least 2) 3) 4metres red electric wire and 7m of black 4) 4 x 3" dia. jubilee clips 5) 2m vacuum hose, 1 x T-piece, 2 x fuel line jubilee clips 6) 1m fuel hose and 2 connectors (Not enough hose in the kit) 7) 2 x 1/2" self tappers for the tank and 4 x 1.1/2" tappers for the pump 8 ) Crimping pliers/wire stripper with loads of blue sleeves, connectors and a ring type connector for earthing the kit 9) circuit tester if u don't already have one 10) 4 grommets to take vacuum hose and water pipe 11) Denso Iridium IK22 spark plugs (colder plug than standard) 12) 55mm dia x 100mm long stainless tube with 25mm square x 5mm thick plate welded halfway along. If u get an 11/32 hole drilled in the centre of the plate and have threads tapped with 1/8 NPT tap it will save u buying the taps but otherwise a 5mm pilot hole is a start. You still need the drill bit to put a hole on the water tank 13) Sticky back velcro (2 black strips) 14) Sticking plasters and swear box :D I got most of this stuff from Halfrauds or local motor factor. The plugs, drill bits and tap came from ebay. Any engineering shop could do the pipe for you. This wee list will save you the numerous runs I had to do lol Another reason I chose a boot install is that the passenger side storage bin is just begging for it. It's perfect size and has double-skin metal to put the screws in. Only downside is its a bit tight for filling the water tank though not impossible. I use a long funnel with a bit of hose on the end. Thinking about drilling a hole in the top of the tank and in the panel above it and shoving a rubber pipe in for easier access DSCF0644sml.jpg Installing these 2 bits is pretty straightforward. Drill a hole in the thick part of the base of the water tank and screw in the fitting first. You will need to cut away the back wall of the storage bin with scissors to mount the parts to metal. Take care marking the position of the holes. I used a 3mm drill bit and DRILL SLOWLY! Don't use much pressure cos u could break through and poke dents in your outer panel. More vital in the upper holes for the water tank as these would be visible from outside. Not pretty lol. Check that the fittings on the pump are screwed tight but don't overtighten them - the fittings are tapered and if you overtighten them you WILL crack the pump housing. When these are mounted, cut a short length of pipe and join the water tank to the pump. The pipes just push into the connections. The pipe on the left goes over the top and behind the quarter panel trim. Use a cable tie to make sure the pipe goes straight into the pump. Connect the long red wire supplied to the red wire and the black wire you bought to the pump wires and route them alongside the water pipe. Now climb into the back seat and lift the seat base and tilt the seat back forward. there are 2 big plastic disks. unscrew these, grab the quarter panel at the edge closest to the door opening and pull the panel. It should pop loose a bit, hopefully without breaking the clips. Now lift the panel vertically and it will come free. The pipe and wires come over the wheel arch and down toward the sill just before the seat belt mechanism then under it and behind the chrome bar. Now lift the sill trim in the door opening. It just pops off when you pull it. Same goes for the triangle shape trim at the side of the passenger footwell. The wires follow the wiring already there but There is a narrow box section running right beside this which I accidentally poked the water hose into but when I kept pushing it slid right along and out the other end. This will protect the water pipe from any possible damage better than a layer of carpet. At this point you will need to join another length of red wire as they don't supply enough! Cheapskates! Both wires and hose continue along the side and behind the glovebox. I just tucked them behind the carpet - nobody's feet will be that far up (I think!) Then thread the lot through the gap behind the centre console and out the other side. Red wire joins to the red wire on the controller, black wire joins to the green one. DSCF0645sml.jpg Now open the drivers door and get your head into the footwell. Undo the 3 torq screws along the bottom of the dash. crawl out again and remove the end panel (semi circle bit that hides the fuse box) I don't mean the door - the whole panel pulls out. Next remove the right side lower dash panel. Before you pull off the left side, there's another torq screw holding it at the bottom. Don't just rip it off like I did lol. Now remove the black panel surrounding the pedals. It slides out toward the seat out of 2 big white clips. Get your head down there and look for a dome headed 10mm nut with a black plastic collar. I used this for the earth going to the black wire on the controller cos its a factory earth point. Crimp a loop connector to a bit of black wire and add it to the other earths there. Don't just crush a bare wire under the nut as a good earth is vital to the health of the controller (apparently) Last wire is the switched live going to the orange wire on the controller. Push the main light switch in and turn it to the right then pull. The switch will slide out of the dash. You want the Black wire with the red line down it on the right corner of the connector. I carefully cut away about 10mm of the insulation, pushed a length of red wire through the dash so it lay alongside the stripped wire, wrapped insulating tape above the join to hold them together and soldered the 2 wires together before covering the join with more insulating tape. You could use a lucas connector but I don't trust them. Then route this red wire down to the orange one on the controller. Plug the controller in, turn the left knob as high as it will go and the right one as low as it will go to switch off the pump as it isn't ready to run yet. Then switch on the ignition. The green LED on the controller should flash rapidly, then start to flash slowly. This is goooood :P If nothing happens, check your wiring. At this stage if you feel up to it (I didn't and didn't think it necessary lol) you could extend the thin blue wire from the controller and follow the water pipe through the bulkhead into the engine bay and connect it to either your MAP, MAF or TPS sensor. The instructions with the kit and the Coolingmist.com website explain what this does. I am happy at the minute to run the system using the boost levels to activate and control the start point and flow rates. Now pop the bonnet and remove the wipers, unscrew the pollen filter cover on the passenger side of the scuttle cover and pull the weather seal off. the scuttle panel should unclip from the windscreen and slide out. unscrew the 3 nuts holding the wiper mechanism and carefully slide the mechanism out. Its fiddly but it does slide out. remove the plug from the wiper motor and throw the lot to the back of the garage in a fit of temper. Behind where the wiper motor was there is a vertical panel. If you measure roughly 7" from the dodgy looking panel join nearest the wing, this is where you want to drill a tiny hole, VERY CAREFULLY! There is wiring and fusebox behind this area. Have a look from inside first and measure there to make sure of the position. There is only a free space of about 3" x 1" to drill into. Part of it is covered in sound deadening on the inside so if you drill and see something that looks solid through the hole, get a torch cos it could just be the sound deadening foam. Ok drill your hole and get back under the dash and look for daylight. You might need to pull back a bit of the foam. If the hole is in the proper place, make it big enough to take a grommet to hold the water pipe. Then drill another hole beside it to take another grommet and the vacuum/boost pipe. Drill a matching hole in the front wall of the scuttle in line with the first hole to take a grommet and water pipe. Now drill ANOTHER hole in the scuttle way over in the middle just in front of the ECU (big silver box with 2 big plugs) for the vacuum pipe. This is to avoid running the pipe over the turbo area DSCF0646sml.jpgDSCF0649sml.jpg Get back under the damn dash (if you're a baldy like me its getting painful by now :) ) and feed the water pipe through the grommet. At this point you discover that the cheapskates skimped on the water pipe too so you need to extend it. I used a 90 degree windscreen washer connector cos its all i could get at the time and fuel line just cos it looked more durable for in the engine bay. Feed the extended water pipe through the front hole and route it along existing pipes, securing it with cable ties towards the intercooler pipe leading to the throttle body. Now remove the engine cover and find the narrow pipe going to the top of the dump valve. cut this pipe and insert the T-piece. I used fuel line jubilee clips but i don't know that that was necessary. Push the vacuum hose onto the T-piece and feed it through into the scuttle area, behind the existing wiring and through the other hole in behind the dash. Back into the car and route the vacuum line down to the controller At this point I drilled an 11/32 hole in the steel pipe and started tapping the threads. Turn the tap 1/4 turn at a time when it takes an effort to turn it and back it off a half turn each time. use plenty of cutting fluid (I didn't and the tap broke off in the hole! Thanks to Coggan engineering for removing it for nothing :D You can't drill it out and they had to Tig weld a nut to the stump) Even doing it properly, the tap gets very tight when its well into the hole. If a bit breaks off the tap, stop immediately and use a new tap. The threaded part of the tap needs to almost disappear into the hole to get proper threads right through. DSCF0656.jpg Next step is to remove the intercooler pipe. If you are lucky, the lower jubilee clip will be facing the right way and you can undo it. If like me you are inherantly unlucky you will have to remove the bumper and drivers side headlight to get at the thing :roll: The water jet needs to be as close to the intercooler as possible to allow maximum cooling effect and mixing with the airflow before it enters the throttle body so cut the I/C pipe about 3" from the end nearest the I/C, remove about 25mm of the rubber pipe to make room for the 25mm plate on the steel pipe. Screw the water nozzle into your steel pipe and slide the pipe into the I/C pipe. If it won't go in easily, try spraying hairspray inside the rubber pipe. It will help get the pipe in and then dries quickly. I used 2 jubilee clips on each side because the steel pipe is smooth. You will have a length of water pipe left over from when you fitted the water tank. insert this into the water nozzle connection, cut it about 3" along, get the inline non-return valve supplied in the kit and check that the fittings are tight - mine were very loose. Then connect the valve making sure the arrow points toward the nozzle and fit the remaining bit of water pipe to the fuel hose section, trimming it to length to suit. Refit all the bits of car, fill the tank with 50% methanol/50% water and have fun setting up the controller :D

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Thanks guys. Are the pics too big? I forgot my desktop runs at 1900x1200 lol. I have been waiting for some methanol but I couldn't wait and tried it with water. Mucho leakage! had to adjust one of the pipes at the pump so it was going in straight and tightened the connections on the check valve under the bonnet which were very loose. All fixed. Kept up with a scooby wrx tonight on first wee drive out to test the system. Well pleased with that :) It feels like the ecu isn't retarding the timing any more and i'm getting pops and bangs changing gear. I'm such a child lol. Meth arriving tomorrow so I'll do some data logging with VAG com. I just edited the post. Fixed the spelling mistakes and added a few more bits. I will add a pic of the steel pipe and check valve fitted in place tomorrow HEY! I GOT PROMOTED! :D Junior Gti member now I see. Thanks again guys

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Ok I have done some data logging runs. The pump is set at only 10psi from the factory so you need to adjust the screw using a 2mm allen key at the pump itself. I turned the nut about 6 turns. Even then with the controller at 10 it didn't bog down as it would if it was getting too much water but I turned it down to 8 anyway and the figures didn't change. I logged intake temperature, timing on each cylinder and Nm which can be converted to lb/ft and bhp. The conversion is Nm x 0.7376 = lb/ft and lb/ft x rpm divided by 5252 = Bhp If you do the calculations in excel, select the rpm, lb/ft and bhp columns, you can make a chart that looks like a R/R printout except I can't figure out how to get the rpms along the bottom lol Anyhow, the intake temp started at 40 degrees and as soon as the pump kicked in it dropped instantly to 23 and stayed around 23-27 degrees. I understand this compares very favourably to a front mount i/c (at a third of the price :-P ) I had my revo adjuster set at 7 for timing (it goes from 1 to 9) and at this setting i was getting zero retarding by the ecu right through the rpm range so I bumped it up to 9. When I did another log The ecu was retarding around 2-3 on cyl 1, 3-4 on cyl 2, 5-7 on cyl 3 and 6-8 on cyl 4. The retarding only goes up to 12 so i'm still safe so long as my water/meth doesn't run out. The reason the timing changes is that the air enters the intake plenum at cyl 1 end and it gets more water vapour. There hasn't been a dramatic increase in power. since last time I visited ECC the torque has gone up 10 lb/ft to 259.9 and power has gone up 7 bhp to 218.8 but when I did the logging it was 16 degrees outside compared to 4 at ECC. The other thing i've noticed is the power and torque peak earlier and the bhp is a flatter curve after that, still making 212bhp at 7200rpm. The car also feels livelier and much more responsive. I'm expecting the figures to go up over the next month as the internals get steam cleaned, removing deposits that can cause knock. The ecu should retard the timing less. Fingers crossed! lol

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Coolingmist supplies 2 injectors - one for under 500bhp and one for over 500bhp. That is all the info they give but I will try and find out. You can adjust the flow rate very easily with the controller so having exactly the right size injector shouldn't be an issue I did another logging session on thursday night. (system has been running for a week now) Was surprised to see I was down on power. torque 225 and bhp 212. Then remembered I changed the methanol/water ratio to 60 water/40 meth. Started turning down the pump flow rate. It was set at 8 and by the time I got my power back it was at 3 lol. Torque is now 256 and bhp 220. When I checked the timing, the ecu is now only retarding a maximum of 6 and only for a few hundred revs so the steam cleaning seems to be working. Takes up to a month to remove all carbon deposits apparently. Karl uses lemmiwinks and CustomSetting and has his timing advanced higher than my revo adjuster will go and his ecu retards it about the same as mine so I'm hoping to see more gains

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I have bought a methanol kit from the states too the kit that i bought comes with a sureflo pump that can run 100% methanol http://www.spturboparts.com/aftermarket/ViewDetails.aspx?prod=16217 thats the kit I bought : )

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