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loeb

Chassis Notch

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I'm aware there are several ways to skin this particular cat but this is how I did it. This shows how I notched my mk3 and if you decided to do it yourself I accept no responsibility for any death or injury to yourself or others or if your write off your car doing this.

Notches are common in our scene and while there are some great examples there are also some dangerous examples too. Try to do this as best you can because the dodgy examples give even good examples a bad rep (plus who wants to drive around with something as serious as a chassis mod not done as best as it could be?)

I went for a 2 5/8 hole cutter to make the notch as this was the smallest I could get away with for my driveshaft diameter and how much it moves backwards and forwards when turning the wheel.

The car was stripped of shock and hub carrier to gain access to the chassis leg area. Normally you'd want to mark the line of where the driveshaft is going to be but if it's already knocking you'll see the wear marks:

20160306_133858_zpsjiyuv2ex.jpg

Next i drilled a pilot hole with a 4mm bit as close to the bottom of the leg so I could keep the notch as low as possible and this also keeps the cutter steady when starting off:

20160306_134545_zpsuqyunwca.jpg

Next up the hole was cut as deep as the cutter would go. The cut under the chassis leg was continued across with the grinder and that piece removed. The cutter was then used again to cut out the other side of the chassis leg like before. When cutting it's advisable to use plenty of oil to cool the bit as it's hard work on the cutters:

20160306_135229_zpsp9zyr4km.jpg20160306_153804_zpsxnxep5xc.jpg

Once all cut I removed the seam sealer with a wire wheel on the grinder and dressed up any burred edges:

20160306_162600_zpsxzowrqiq.jpg

This was an important part for me. Getting the infill piece to fit perfect before welding. It was offered up, marked, cut and buffed maybe 20 times before I was happy then the piece and the cut in the chassis was sprayed with weld through primer. I let the piece protrude about 1mm on the outside edge to weld deep into. I noticed as I welded the waxoyl inside the chassis leg was melting and running out into the weld so I had to keep wiping it away to keep it out of the weld as best as possible:

20160306_183354_zpsswegcnbw.jpg
20160306_183349_zpsseomoj1j.jpg

I then welded it and give it 2 coats of primer:

20160306_191653_zpscinvepzs.jpg

Once dry I gave it a coat of brush on seam sealer. Top tip I've learned over the years of using is stuff: Cut about 1/3 to 1/2 off the bristles and it makes it much easier to brush on:

20160306_194807_zpsthdmemqr.jpg20160306_203543_zpsu3lzzmfn.jpg

Finally I gave it a coat of stone chip and put the car back together. Job done:

20160306_204342_zpsu8lklwb4.jpg

And what it let me achieve:

20160306_214858_zpshkxesacm.jpg

Connor

Edited by loeb

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Cheers John always good to give back to the forums. If I do any other bits I'll try do a few more.

Yeah clark bar the welding there isn't anything specialist about it bar knowing not to be a tool and remove most of the chassis leg and knowing that it's a must to weld it up. It's incredible when you search online how many people are asking can you cut it open and just leave it.

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I was thinking of putting up a guide to replacing the steering rack in a B3 Passat:

Step 1) Spend 3 weeks trying to get one ordered from a motor factors/breakers (even though you work in one and they can't even get it!)

Step 2) Take it to a mechanic - seriously its not worth the heartache!

Step 3) Done.

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