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pistolpete

Pistolpete's Mars Red Mk1 GTi Build Thread

100 posts in this topic

So I've been trying to crack on with the underside now the welding is complete.  I'm using Bilt Hamber products for all the corrosion protection.  First step is 2 coats of Hydrate 80 which treats any exposed steel and forms a protective sealing layer.  Very good quality stuff, it was applied to the whole underside (starts off blue as you can see, then turns bare metal black).

P1030410_zpsfj2bqhps.jpg

Veedubboy likes this

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The next stage was to apply Bilt Hamber Electrox zinc primer.  As this is just going to be a base coat prior to the epoxy mastic, I just wanted to brush it on (most people seem to brush it on anyway).  However, I have had some trouble with it blistering badly and once dry it just peels off.  The only thing I can think of is that it needs to be thinned down a bit as it is going on too thick and not bonding correctly to the surface.  Can anybody advise me on this as I cannot continue until I know how to resolve this.

P1030420_zpsaivyd926.jpg

P1030423_zpssonkklth.jpg

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Email Max at Bilt Hamber. I use their rust stuff too. I have used hydrate 80, dynax ub, and dynax s50. All great products. In regards to Electrolux I'd say it's contaminated some how either on the car or in the tin??

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That looks more like a reaction - however with the epoxy mastic it isn't essential to precoat the bare metal with a primer of any sort although I did use Zinga as a primer on the wheel arches (area of most impact for stones etc) after bare metalling them. I see though that you are doing a process with the bilt hamber in stages so I get why you want to do this... Must be something on the steel that is reacting... 

Edited by Carbs4ever

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Yes, to be honest Bilt Hamber were very helpful.  I sent through the pics and they advised that it looked like a reaction between the two coatings.  To prove the point, I was asked to try the same 2 coatings on a sheet of clean bare steel which went on fine.  Looks like in this case I wasn't thorough enough with the degreasing between Hydrate 80 and Electrox Primer.  In order to rectify it, I have to flat back the primer, then thoroughly degrease with Xylene, and where the Hydrate 80 remains over bare steelwork apply the Electrox, and where it is over existing factory undercoat apply the Epoxy Mastic directly.  Good job I didn't go too far so it won't take long to fix, but a bit diasppointing that the manufacturer's coatings are not fully compatible (I didn't degrease at all between coats of Hydrate 80 and Electrox on the bare steel but there was no reaction).

I haven't got back near the car due to holidays and working, and it will be a wee while yet before I'm at it again.

Can anybody advise on a good suction fed spray gun to use for the final etch prime and top coating (in 2-pack) of the underside?  It will be fed by a Parkside 50litre air compressor I got from LIDL, which is rated to 170 l/min at 7 bar (free air delivery).  I'm guessing suction fed gun will be needed due to working on my back, but if you think a gravity fed gun will be ok then let me know and also which to go for.

Thanks

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Time for a thread resurrection, as the project is still progressing slowly.  To bring this up-to-date, I contacted Bilt Hamber about the reaction and they concluded that I didn't degrease thoroughly enough between the hydrate 80 and the electrox primer.  I tried the same combination on a bit of plain new steel and there was no reaction.  However, I was started to realise that I couldn't get the underside of the car to the standard I wanted whilst lying underneath, and I certainly wasn't comfortable with the thought of painting in 2-pack paint in such a confined space in my garage.  Therefore, after a lot of deliberation I plumped for a rollover jig from Handling Solutions (www.rolloverjigs.com).  Great service from them, it arrived within days (to Northern Ireland).  My next issue was that to get it on the jig I would need to get the engine out, and so Santa was very kind….I picked up a 2 ton engine crane from a local auction house, and got a Sealey load leveller and engine stand whilst ECP had their Xmas discount code running.  I got my dad and brother-in-law to help me remove the bonnet to the spare bedroom for safe-keeping!

So for some pics, from this:-
P1030652_zpsqmijtjwr.jpg

Work in progress:-
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Engine out, quite straightforward really and the load leveller and crane certainly were very useful given I did it on my own:-
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Engine on the stand.  It'll stay here for a while as I want to concentrate on getting the underside and engine bay ready for paint as a priority.  The detailing of the engine and bits can be done while the shell is away.

P1030878_zps0sfna7mq.jpg

And that's the bay pretty much clear.  Not sure what to do with the wiring, as I don't want to remove it but it will be getting tidied up.  But what should I do with it for painting?  Just wrap it all up and bag it?

P1030901_zpsoppkwnls.jpg

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And just some bits I've been getting ready for the rebuild when it finally comes:-
P1030792_zpsngjufdrm.jpg

And since June, that's it pretty much up-to-date.  I'm hoping to get cracking now I have the rollover jig, so I'll post up some further pics when I get it mounted.  I plan to transport the shell on the jig to the paintshop, so I need to get some castor wheels and some additional steelwork to join the 2 jigs….and then find a suitable means of transporting it.

Glenngttdi likes this

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Thanks gents, it certainly is a lot of work but I'm really enjoying it so far. It's been great to get a proper look at it with everything removed. To be honest, it's actually a pretty mint shell as it was fully waxoyled by a mate of mine years ago (the black stuff on the bulkhead isn't really dirt, it's waxoyl.).

Looking forward to driving it again that's for sure, but it'll be a while yet. I'm hoping perhaps Castlewellan this summer.

Middleman and Desperado like this

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So, little update.  It has taken a while, but finally got the rollover jig assembled and mounted the car onto it.  I bought the basic kit from www.rolloverjigs.com but have added some additional bracing and castor wheels to move it around the garage.  Its pretty tight in the garage due to overall length of the base feet, but it fits and rolls over with relative ease.  I plan on sending it to the painters on the jig on a trailer, so if anybody has a suitable large low loader trailer that could be borrowed, please let me know.  End to end its probably almost 5m long but I'll get a tape measure on it to confirm.  The larger box sections on the floor will be to join both jigs together under the car to stiffen it for travelling.  Its fine as it is for now just moving it around the garage and into the driveway.

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Hopefully things will progress a bit quicker now.  Having said that, I've started looking at electroplating kits !!!!  This project has definitely grown arms and legs, what started as a stripped thread in the front hub has become a full concourse resto.  I just want to get the shell finished so I can start putting it all back together.

 

Donnelly1973 and Middleman like this

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Love this thread Pete. It has been taken to another level altogether. Would love to have the garage space to be able to do this to a car, right down to the bare bones so you are 100% about what you have at the end of it.

I hope the comments on here help to keep you motivated.

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Cheers Middleman, yes the comments certainly help. I agree with you about space, I'm struggling with where to put all the stuff that's been removed and still have room to get round the car. My main problem is lack of time to progress, I only get 2 mornings & 1 evening to work at it. 

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